Rippable little waist high wave today
Hopee these little medium period waves keep coming. Fun to get out there and surf around on some swell plus its sunny and beautiful.
searching the inter web and found this
Check out this rad vid. It's all channel island boys but i think i saw John John on a massive barrel. Japan... who knew!? Also check out the Channel Islands sight for the new Deep6 model, looks like an updated wizards sleeve or a Lost Rock-up.
Awesome vid for your stoke
Pretty much completed!
So today i removed the jigs for the fins. Sanded the fin boxes down smooth with the board, and then sanded the entire board down to a nice smooth finish. Lessons learned? Plenty! Don't use locktight epoxy on the leash plug because it turns yellow. Dont rush the glassing cause you'll forget to sand something. I already knew it but, surfboards are defineatly a craft and worth ever penny.
Surfed and installed boxes.
Went surfing today and then started qork on the fin boxes. Surf today was super windy. The wind chill was pretty bad but the water was still easily in the 70°s. I wore a wetsuit and found it wasn't nessesary and also that I'm out of shape. Surfing with wetsuit on is some serious work. These pics are of the fin box install. Hope thet come out well. I've never done it before and i felt a little out of sorts doing it. These are pro boxes with a mackee 5 fin set up. Should work well, looking to get alot of built in drive.
Sand coat is on!
Don't know if you you can tell buy i put the sand coat on the bottom today. The sand coat is basiclly the fill coat. It fills in all the fiber patterns in the fiberglass and also makes all the patches that are over the finboxes and logos blend seamlessly. It also has wax in it. The wax makes the resin sandable when dry. It also makes for a smooth comp sand feel, just like all the boards at the surf shop.
More from the build.
Glassing has begun!
A little work on the foam
Got the plan shape cut out on the huge chunk of foam. This super groveller should float and catch anything. It's 7'0 with a pulled in squash giving it a bump right before the rail fins. Hopefully that will give some control in the pocket, with alot of drive.
love the transitions in this video
New project!
Ah. The keys!
Well we made it to the keys. Drove down to jacksonville to pick up my bro Jay. Had some drinks with some Alabama folks and some lobbiests from DC. Good to talk to some people from places i once lived. Got up yesterday morning and drove to Chase's in new smyrna beach for lunch. Great blackend fish sandwich! After lunch we went for a little surf. Jay decided he was a little too cocky and that surfing is harder than he remembered. His arms were noodles after about 10 min!
Got to the keys last night, bought a drink for my girl Jen, met her soon to be hubs, and ran into "fun bobby " and some of the NYC gang. Super fun hanging with them again.
Having fun, miss my wife. Wedding, bbq, and SUPing this afternoon! I live a great life!
On the road again.
Headed to the keys for a wedding. Since my wife can't get off work i decided to invite my buddy Jay. I taught Jay how to surf this summer, so he was stoked and jumped at the opportunity to pick up women at a wedding and go surf the florida coast. These pics are of the pathfinder ready to roll with the soft rack and longboard attached. Looks like it's gonna be a fun week!
Great Video to get you stoked!
Hey I love this video! My favorite southbay surfer Alex Grey with Dusty Payne surfing out in West-Oz! Sick!
Some fun ones coming through.
Epic day on the east coast.
Paddled out this AM with my neighbor. OMG got barreled 3 times, once backside and twice frontside. So awesome. Got worked a little but during lowtide I got sucked up into the lip on a backside pigdog barrel and turned over, thus sending my board straight into the sandbar and buckling my nose. Supper session. Get stoked!
The beginnings of a new friend named Katia
Looks like a little fun bump. It was about waist on me with occasional chest. When I say occasional I mean 3 in the span of 2 hours. Still, you can feel a little ground swell mixed with all that wind whipped chop out there. Have fun with it.
Hurricane Irene - Hopper and Crew score fun waves in Florida from Ocean Video Photography 2 on Vimeo.
This little video is for Matt. Check out the old hood blowin' up. Hitting Reef Road and The inlet... Sick!
Hilarious video
wipeoutOTD from rory pringle @ conceptblue on Vimeo. I totally did this today! except on a smaller scale of stomach high wave. Totally dropped in knee board style cause i couldn't get my foot up front and then ass over end landed with my back on the board and then got churned up in the lip and then back down to the sand! So fun and i did it right in front of my friend who commented on how good it looked.
Man that was awesome!
Whew! What a week of swell they had. I was in LA and only got 3-4, these guys were getting monsters! Hope you all get stoked over the vid and maybe we'll get some swell from this next hurricane! Oh and good luck to Grey, he's headed to indo this month! So stoked for ya!
Yet another thing to miss.
Ahh. Another thing that I miss so much about LA... Street art! This place I live can't compare to my old hood. Old hood rocks new neighborhood F'n blows!
Another thing to miss
Kinda misses these little marvels of technology. The hand dryer jet blade thing. Once you use one you'll never want to use the old style again! We don't have any of these back in wilmington, our at least not that i've seen. Hell we still have styrofoam to go containers and flushing urinals by the beach. Not that LA's beaches are better but you kinda know whats coming in the future... Trash in the water!
Back in da hood!
Can't believe it's been 2 years already. We're so loving being back in the hood! This is the view from my old coffee shop.