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Great 3-5 ft day 5/22/12
This morning was super fun. First thing this AM it was clean and probably chest to shoulder on me. Got some great A frame sets. Later it started to closeout and get high tidey. The wind started to mess up the faces a bit also. Super fun though, paddle out if you can. The first pic is of the board I road today. I finally got to put the fish away and step onto a more performance oriented board. I was riding my 5'8" Rock-up, which is a step up board but really can be surfed in anything about 4ft and up (chest to way overhead).
5/15/2012 Yew!
Got some fun little 3-4 ft waves today. Still used the fish though. I love that board, works in everything and really fun. Used it as a thruster today and it was perfect. If you can go outand catch a surf.
This wave looks like my nightmare!
you probably need a super flat tail rocker with a medium nose rocker and some drivey fins just to make this thing. I actually would love to try it but those kinds of waves are my nemisis!
5/10/2012 little wave for a log
Little log knee high wave. The best part is the weather. About 65° this morning with off shore winds and 72° water temps makes for a fun session. I rode the fish at first but thhen switched out to my 7'0" funboard.
Sent from my LG phone
Sent from my LG phone
Jamie O'brien JOB Big Island
4/17/2012
Been a minute since I posted last. Sorry! I've got no excuse except it was winter and just getting all that rubber on makes you not wanna spend time taking pics. I'm in boardies and a wetsuit jacket now, water temps have hit 65 and it feels great. Got a board on the Way from Mayhem, counting the days, stoked to get on it this summer. This video is a great little J.O.B section exploring da'Big Island. Not much surfing in it but it really makes me want to explore more Hawaii. Waves here are small and crapy. Not much to report.
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