Not so much fun. Had a terrible time with this swell. Couldn't find a good spot. I was in a real dumpy closeout spit most if the day. It was head high but I couldn't make any drops at all. I probably should have looked around more but was surfing with some people and just stayed in one area north of the pier. Beautiful day to surf head high waves though. Rode the step up for a few and switched to the 5'8 no luck on either. 😿
Make luck happen.
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